Gaijinphoto Magazine

Photo of the Week

Man at annual Confucian ceremony at Jongmyo Shrine in Seoul.

Lotus Lantern Festival

Girl at Lotus Lantern Festival dressed in traditional hanbok.

About 50% of Koreans are Buddhist, but on this day, the birthday of the Buddha, it felt as though the whole world followed the Eight-fold path along the route of the Lotus Lantern Festival in Seoul. Beginning at Jogyesa Temple around noon, devotees and a relatively small number of tourists gathered in the temple grounds to begin a series of rituals, in traditional finery, meant to mark the day.

Two young girls play around in traditional Korean hanbok.

The atmosphere was lively and festival-goers were genuinely encouraged by the Jogyesa Monks to take part in the ceremonies. There was a decidedly Buddhist essence about the day that, despite the chilly temperature and constant drizzle that threatened to put a damper on things, warmed the soul and kept visitors snapping photos for hours on end.

Woman in traditional costume leads the band and dancers at Jogyesa Temple.

  But if one were to arrive at Jogyesa with the expectation of flowing saffron robes and the elaborate Buddhist rites of Tibet, Nepal or Thailand, they might be disappointed – or rather taken with a very different and charming reality in its own right. Korean Buddhism seems more sedate, to the neophyte, which I admit to being, but has a warmth all its own. In fact, I count Jogyesa as one of my favorite temples in the world and whenever I am in the neighborhood, I stop by to see the sights, feel the vibes and smell the sweet scent of the constantly burning incense.

Burning devotional candles at Jogyesa.

Those parade participants who gathered at the temple for the pre-procession celebrations were not in Buddhist garb at all. In fact they were in traditional Korean hanbok or other costumes that one often sees at various Korean festivals. This fit right in with what one would expect at Jogyesa. The atmosphere being informal and lighthearted, all that is fun and right with the world is embraced and celebrated. This includes traditional Korean customs, as well as the revelry of the Western onlookers who were cajoled into the dance circle as the band played traditional Korean tunes and whipped around the courtyard. For about 30 minutes there was a vortex of color, dance and merriment until the participants were flung out by the centrifugal force that sent them to attend to the purpose of the day – the parade.

Women proceed from Jogyesa Temple to the route of the Lotus Lantern Festival.

From my perch atop a subway ventilation grate, it appeared to me that the Lotus Lantern Festival Parade began at 19:30 at Jongno – 3ga Station and proceeded toward Jongak. The parade included all manner of colored lanterns, lit by candle, bulb and various incarnations of light that brought the cold, wet night to life. Spectators had their own lamps that varied in complexity and beauty. In fact, those who arrive in Seoul for just the day need not fret since free lanterns are handed out at Jogyesa so that all can participate, just like a local. Good to know for next year.

Monks in parade.

I have been to a few places in the world and have seen a festival or two, but I have to admit, although not the most elaborate, the Lotus Lantern Festival is one of the best festival/ parades I have ever seen. Perhaps it was because I had low expectations (why I don’t know). Perhaps it is because the weather was terrible, or because for the last few years I had always missed this festival, having been so close last year, I was actually at Jogyesa but did not stick around for the parade (dumb). But I think the main reason it was so great was because the people were so nice. Chalk it up to Buddha’s Birthday, chalk it up to Koreans being nice people in general – but with such genuinely good feelings in the air during a day of pretty miserable wet and cold, I had the same feeling that I have when I am at a good basketball game and most of the crowd, discouraged, leaves in the third quarter, while those of us faithful who decided to stick it out were rewarded with both a surprise victory and the newly formed and soon to be lost, temporal camaraderie of complete strangers.

Faithful onlookers with their lanterns celebrate the Buddha's Birthday.

On this day of strangers in a strange land, the celebration of the Birthday of the Buddha was enough to reward me beyond expectation and to make me begin planning for next year’s Lotus Lantern Festival so I don’t miss this great event again.

 

 

 

 

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Cherry Blossoms bring Namsan alive in Seoul, Republic of Korea.